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Author Topic: My Tial 605 Tune Thread  (Read 251437 times)
NOTORIOUS VR
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« on: May 14, 2011, 06:52:50 AM »

Keeping with the other threads in this new section.. here is the rundown on my mods at a quick glance.

Current mods:
Stock 2.7T w/ TiAL 605 turbo kit
Self-made 85mm MAF using OE Hitachi sensor
1000cc ID Injectors
Stock 4 BAR FPR
Bosch Motorsport "044" Fuel pump w/ check valve
Ebay dual in/out FMIC w/ custom 2.5" piping
VAST W/M still using dual #3 nozzles (K03 setup)
SSAC 3" > 2.5" catless DP, mated to single 3" Milltek turbo back (two mufflers)



Future Mods:
HPX sensor in 85mm housing
3 BAR FPR
ER SMIC w/ carbon shrouds
Dual 3" Catless DP to either single 3.5" or True dual 3" turbo back
Larger W/M nozzles + AEM failsafe or new Aquamist HFS-3 kit

__________________________________________________________________________

I figure I'll keep my info relevent to my car/605's in here only... that way I can share info with you guys and get help/feedback without cluttering up the site.

Anyway, last night I got the MAF on and the injectors in.

Basic Fueling Specs...
Inj: ID1000
MAF: 85mm
File: Tony's Stage 3 M-Box for now

I started with some KRKTE & TVUB #'s from Juliex yesterday, and while the TVUB numbers are probably ok, the car was idling very, very lean with a KRKTE of .05, so with no wideband installed yet (yeah I know....) I decided to up the KRKTE until I felt the motor was responsive enough (seemed to be around 0.06 already), I then noticed that the ECU was still adding fuel so I bumped it to 0.07.

Now the car seemed to be somewhat happy, idle was still hunting and VAC on my boost gauge was less then normal (16-18) but I'm unsure if this is due to the slight hunting and possibly increased TQ req. @ idle in Tony's file.  But the motor was responding nicely to the accelerator so I could tell the fueling was at least ok.

Anyway, I ended up extending the decimal point for the KRKTE value to 3, and settled on a value of I think .075 for now... A little on the right side, but with no changes at all to Tony's file other then TVUB and KRKTE it was time to go home (1am).  But before that I took it for a few test drives to make sure I would get home in one piece and of course for at least one 2nd gear log Smiley












Either way, today's task is to get the idle and part throttle right with a closer to realistic KRKTE value.  As it seems around .5 is more or less correct just at idle it's far too lean.  But with higher valves idle is fine, but cruise and boost is WAYYYYY too rich.
« Last Edit: February 06, 2012, 02:58:40 PM by NOTORIOUS VR » Logged

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julex
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« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2011, 08:47:20 AM »

Looks good!

One major comment. The TVUB I am using is for Bosch ev14 1000cc, yours are ID 1000cc, you will have completely different TVUBs!

Appropriate TVUB table is usually supplied with their injectors and if you don't have it, it is on their website.

I suspect that the TVUB you have in your tune right now is just too small for what your injectors really should use and you had to add tons of % to KRKTE which then reared its ugly head in WOT where you were dumping far too much fuel.

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NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2011, 08:52:06 AM »

Looks good!

One major comment. The TVUB I am using is for Bosch ev14 1000cc, yours are ID 1000cc, you will have completely different TVUBs!

Appropriate TVUB table is usually supplied with their injectors and if you don't have it, it is on their website.

I suspect that the TVUB you have in your tune right now is just too small for what your injectors really should use and you had to add tons of % to KRKTE which then reared its ugly head in WOT where you were dumping far too much fuel.



Interesting...

Can I just plug these in as is then?

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« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2011, 02:49:15 PM »

Yup, the ones for 60psi should work ok, you might want to choose a value in the middle between 55 and 60psi since 4 bar is I think something like 58psi.
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NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2011, 07:34:04 PM »

Yup, the ones for 60psi should work ok, you might want to choose a value in the middle between 55 and 60psi since 4 bar is I think something like 58psi.

Did that and it helped... but I'm still having a hard time with lean idle AFR's and what seems to be oscillating light/cruise AFR...  And if course I can't seem to always get the boost AFR where I want to to be... so I gave up for the night.

Made good power on the dyno (don't really want too much more right now, still on the stock FP)...



Need to get my wideband in and post up the shit ton of logs that I have from the dyno pulls... and then start tinkering.  I still ended up with a KRKTE of .066 to help with the leaner idle/cruise situation.

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silentbob
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« Reply #5 on: May 15, 2011, 01:38:39 AM »

What's your injection time in ms in the problem area?
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judeisnotobscure
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« Reply #6 on: May 15, 2011, 02:49:25 AM »

TVUB values for ID 1000 injectors based off info from the injector dynamic website.
voltage/   time msec
7.04/   4.362
10.0672/ 2.030
12.03/   1.656
14.08/   1.324
17.8816/ 0.821
« Last Edit: May 15, 2011, 02:52:12 AM by judeisnotobscure » Logged

I have a b5 s4
but i just want to dance.
NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #7 on: May 15, 2011, 09:24:35 PM »

^^^ Thanks!

What's your injection time in ms in the problem area?

These logs go with the dyno chart above... but it seems anywhere between 10-11ms this run.












And the Actual Log files if you prefer:

http://schnell-engineering.com/misc/web/Typical-5-14-2011_8-02-00_PM.csv
http://schnell-engineering.com/misc/web/Typical-5-14-2011_8-02-00_PM.elg
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« Reply #8 on: May 16, 2011, 07:03:27 AM »

Part of the reason why I went with 3bar besides issues with fitting solid FP into a C5 platform (shorter fuel tank), was the fact that at idle an injector with so much flow will have serious issue opening/closing accurately and will lead to all sorts of issues.

If you look at ID site and locate the graphs for injection error you will notice that they have rather large linearity error at low pulse widths. The problem is that with 1000cc @ 4bar you are well into that area since our cars idle at around 1.4-1.5 with 4 bar and slightly more (but just enough to get our of trouble area especially that the curve moves the the left 3 bar) at 3bar.

I think you might have to do the same thing I did which is go with 3bar albeit I have ev14 1000cc which no doubt have different characteristics altogether.


Here are the graphs:

3bar:


4bar:


As to osciallation at idle/cruise. With 1000ccs it is almost unavoidable, but it all depends how many 0.1s are we talking about. 0.1-0.2 below/over oscillation I would call normal, undershooting/overshooting by 0.5 while idling is no good and probably related to the linearity error.
« Last Edit: May 16, 2011, 07:10:21 AM by julex » Logged
NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #9 on: May 16, 2011, 07:59:25 AM »

I've always planned to go 3 BAR, I just haven't gotten on FPR yet... But thanks for the insight.

What I really need to take care of is the lean idle/cruise situation... it's really annoying..  and I need to lower my KRKTE again... I got a system too rich code for both banks yesterday...

My train of thought on my last two passes on the dyno was to increase the KRKTE so that leanness @ idea/cruise wouldn't be as bad but clearly that doesn't work... as I tried to compensate with the component protect table and get two things... too rich anyway (see last dyno/logs) and system to rich error under boost.

So I'm going back to two files ago (lower KRKTE) and then am going to massage KFKHFM for idle/cruise... what do you guys think about that approach?
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« Reply #10 on: May 16, 2011, 09:55:29 AM »



So I'm going back to two files ago (lower KRKTE) and then am going to massage KFKHFM for idle/cruise... what do you guys think about that approach?

Yea. Use KRKTE to get open loop right (use a wideband!), then use KFKHFM to massage idle/cruise to get your trims zeroed.
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NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #11 on: May 16, 2011, 11:10:54 AM »

Yea. Use KRKTE to get open loop right (use a wideband!), then use KFKHFM to massage idle/cruise to get your trims zeroed.

Yup, gonna get my WBO2 in and start playing around some more... If I can get the AFR's dialed in somewhat and I can figure out why the hell my IAT's are so damn high then I'll probably head back to the dyno for finalization.
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« Reply #12 on: May 16, 2011, 12:09:12 PM »

Yea. Use KRKTE to get open loop right (use a wideband!), then use KFKHFM to massage idle/cruise to get your trims zeroed.

Yup, gonna get my WBO2 in and start playing around some more... If I can get the AFR's dialed in somewhat and I can figure out why the hell my IAT's are so damn high then I'll probably head back to the dyno for finalization.

I hope that the MAF you made is not the culprit here. What does it mate to on filter side?
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NOTORIOUS VR
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« Reply #13 on: May 16, 2011, 12:15:24 PM »

I hope that the MAF you made is not the culprit here. What does it mate to on filter side?

The MAF being the culprit for the high IAT's? Because of the way it sits by the motor? Maybe...  In all the logs here there was nothing at the end, no filter nothing... just looked like this:



I have now since yesterday a filter on though.

Or were you thinking of something else causing the high IAT's related to my "custom" MAF?
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« Reply #14 on: May 16, 2011, 12:39:50 PM »

Just thinking about geometry here. It seems to me that the sensor opening is pretty far from exact center of maf housing, am I right?

The further it is from the center, the less air speed it will register at the same air flow as in the exact center. You might have to compensate for that in your MAF table or by KRKTE.

Having no filter is not only bad from the IATs perspective but also because the air has no time/travel distance to mix properly and get rid of vorticles the sharp edges of of maf housing generate.

So many variables... but follow post in the other thread above/below where I posted about TVUB. I think the FPR/TVUB combination is the issue at hand.
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